When you take puppy home. . .

Dogs and puppies like small areas where they can feel safe and secure. If possible, block off an area in a room without carpet and out of the way of foot traffic. Introduce your puppy to a crate you can take from room to room. Make sure your puppy can hear or see you. If the puppy whines, wait about 10 minutes and if it continues, tap on the crate and sharply say "QUIET!" Follow up with "good boy/girl," if indeed your puppy does become quiet. Puppies should only be confined after being allowed to go potty first.

Gradually let your puppy get used to being alone. If your puppy doesn't learn this, he/she could suffer from separation anxiety when you do have to leave it for a period of time. Try to set up times when the puppy can "practice" being alone.

Dog crates come in various designs and sizes. Looks aren't as critical as size, particularly if you plan to crate train your puppy. See our "Helpful Links" page for a site where you can purchase puppy starter kits.

First night or two . . .

If possible, put the puppy's crate next to your bed. Tell him/her "bedtime," and then "good boy/girl" once they are inside. Once again, if he/she cries, allow it for only a few minutes and then sharply tap on the crate and say the word "QUIET," followed by "good boy/girl" when the puppy does become quiet. Again, make sure the puppy has been allowed to go outside to potty before confinement.

First week . . .

Dedicate the first week to teaching potty training and manners. Everyone in the family needs to participate in this training! Take your puppy to an appropriate spot. Use this spot consistently. Use the same phrase or word or cue to the puppy--such as "outside" or "potty."

You can reward the puppy with a small treat, but only AFTER he/she has completed their business. Puppies should be taken to the potty area about 10 minutes after meals, immediately after naps and after exercise (lots of play).

Keep your puppy within your viewing range, whether in his/her crate or in the confined area of a room. Never allow them to wander loose in your house.

Needed items . . .

• Nylon or leather collar.
  

• Leash at least 6 feet long. The extended ones are really nice as you can give them more room to exercise and still keep hold of them.

Training begins the moment you take the puppy home! The first words you want your puppy to understand: His/Her Name, Come, No, and Good Dog!

Protect your pet . . .

Speaking in general . . .

• Make sure fresh water is always available, until about two hours before bedtime.
• Meals should be provided about the same time every day. Feed three times a day to start your puppy off. After 30 minutes, if the puppy is not still eating, remove the food until next feeding time.
• Consult your vet or breeder on all health concerns and keep your puppy shots current.

Chewing . . .

Puppies need to chew! They are going through a teething process, and you should provide appropriate chew toys for them. When taking away a forbidden object, replace it with an "okay chew toy," then praise the puppy. Through training you can teach him/her to leave it or drop it. If you keep the puppy confined when no one can watch him/her, you will not have to endure destructive chewing habits.

DO NOT ALLOW YOUR PUPPY TO CHEW ON YOUR HANDS!

Snapping. . .

Sometimes very young puppies will growl and try to bite. This tendency may be caused by a fear of being hurt. It may be caused by over excitement or roughhousing. Teething causes a puppy to need to chew, and the puppy may chew on your hand. Simply have a chew toy ready when he does this. Discourage your puppy from snapping with a firm "NO," but do not hit or strike the puppy. This only serves to turn what may have started as play into genuine aggressiveness in self defense.

Give teething pups something hard to chew on. Rubber bones, such as Nylabones and Kong brands are great. Generally, if you are quiet and gentle with your pup, the puppy will be quiet and gentle with you.

Cheerios . . .

Cheerios are one of the best and most efficient ways to train and reward a puppy for good performance. One little O can delight a puppy to want more. When raising a puppy, it is a lot like raising a child. A firm, but loving hand, consistency, and rewards of loving words is the best strategy. Like children, puppies respond to your tone of voice.

Kennel Training Tips. . .

Dogs which have not been trained and properly oriented may initially resist confinement, particularly for long periods of time. Training should begin when your dog is a puppy. Once the dog accepts the kennel as its "den," you will have few problems getting the dog to enter the kennel or stay in it for several hours. There are numerous training aids available. Tapes, books, and articles are available which can provide guidance in this area (see our "Helpful Links" page for great informational Internet sites), but since it is important to begin a training routine immediately, the following basic directions will give you a start:

1. Never push or shove a pet into the kennel. Never use the kennel as a means of punishment.
2. Coax the pet in with toys or treats and reward with praise.
3. Start by placing your pet in the crate for short periods of time, like 15 minutes at a time.
   • Stay in the room with your pet during this period until he is comfortable with it.
   • Take the puppy out of the crate and praise and cuddle it.
   • After he is at ease with going in, leave the room for the same time period.
   • Gradually increase the time to 30 minutes. Your pet will feel more comfortable when you have to leave for longer periods of time, knowing you will eventually come back.
4. Do not leave your young pet kenneled for more than two to three hours at a time for approximately the first 11 weeks. Gradually extend the time kenneled.
5. Young pets need to relieve themselves often and don't like to soil their sleeping/den area. They will whine or bark. This is your cue to quickly take them out. In this way, your pet will learn how to tell you they need to "go."
6. Place the kennel inside your bedroom at night until the pet feels secure.
   • Use old towels or small blankets (all washable), for bedding.
   • Place something in the kennel with your scent to help your pet feel more secure.
7. Whenever possible, leave the kennel door open during the daytime in a restricted area so the pet can go in and out at will.

House Breaking Your Puppy. . .

Puppies are creatures of habit. Your job is to create the habit of using outside for elimination. Be patient! Each dog trains at a different speed. The pup's full capacity is not reached until 3 or 4 months of age. Food goes through in about 10 hours, water in 1 or 2 hours. Judge taking the puppy out accordingly. Pups tend to relieve themselves after they eat. They urinate after they wake up, drink, play, get excited or meet a guest. Be successful by taking the puppy out as much as possible and by watching for opportunities. Encourage your puppy to go outside by making it a positive, happy experience. Don't sound stressed or angry. Show joyful excitement. Praise the puppy after he has done his duty. You can pick him up and hug and kiss him after he is done, saying "good potty."

Provide a small confinement area such as a crate, laundry area or hallway. Dogs will not mess where they sleep. Do not let the puppy have free run into other parts of the house until he is house-broken.

Never punish the puppy if he has an accident. Think of it as your fault rather than his. Keep your emotions in check. If you yell at your puppy for having an accident in the house, he may learn to hide his mistakes from you.

Careful observation will give you visual cues and help you establish a timing pattern for your puppy. Practice diligence in the first weeks of potty training your pet, and you'll get positive results in no time at all!